Replacement safety curtain guides for platen press

Platen press safety curtainStephen Sword, a friend from the Book Arts Guild of Richmond Hill, has a platen press at home fitted with a safety curtain. A metal frame rises above the edge of the platen as the press closes to push the operator’s hand away from the platen to avoid hand injuries. The frame is also fitted with a cloth curtain so the operator can’t put their hand through the frame when it is up (which would cause injury as the frame drops after impression).

The frame slides in two guides on either upper corner of the back of the platen, but being sliding parts they are subject to wear. On this particular press both guides have worn out and the right-hand guide has been replaced by a bent strap of sheet metal which looks rather makeshift and out of place on this old press.

Stephen also helps various museums and letterpress operators keep old presses in good condition and has noticed similar worn guides on other presses.

Three replacement guides with the original worn-out one below them, and three strips waiting to be bent, all sitting on the drawing.

Three replacement guides with the original worn-out one below them, and three strips waiting to be bent, all sitting on the drawing.

He asked if I could make some replacement guides that looked more contemporary and less home-made. I’ve been sitting on the task for months but this week I finally started working on them. All I really had as a model was the broken piece of one of the original guides, so I had to guess somewhat at the dimensions. From the shape of the old part it looks to me like the same guide was to be used with frames made of either round rod or ¾×⅛″ flat stock.

I clamped a guide to my metal-cutting bandsaw so I could reliably cut strips ½″ wide from 16 gauge steel sheet. I smoothed off the edges with a file, and cut each strip in three lengthwise. Using a hammer, a vise, and a short piece of ⅜″ rod I formed the strips to match the actual-size printout of the drawing I had made. As it turned out I had not cut the first strip exactly in 3 so two of the guides are a bit short and the third had to be trimmed. The second strap was cut more evenly and I should be able to get 3 complete guides from it.

All that is left is to drill the mounting holes, and give the parts an old look by heating them with the torch to blacken them, and rubbing some oil into the surface to prevent rust. And then hope they fit properly.

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Western Marbling workshop

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe will be holding a workshop in introductory western marbling on Saturday, November 9th, from 9am to 4pm (with a 1-hour lunch break) at our store in New Dundee.

This hands-on course provides an overview of the materials and methods used for western-style (“Turkish”) marbling, with the students doing practical work using acrylic paints on methyl cellulose size.

The fee for this course is $65.00 plus 13% HST for a total of $73.45 per person, including all materials.

If you wish to participate, you should reserve your place as soon as possible. For details, or to book a place in this workshop, please contact us.

Monotype Pneumatics: Tubing repair

A previous owner of my Monotype composition caster had done a bit of a butcher job repairing a broken tube under the table. There were two soldered joints (using fittings not designed for solder joints) and two tees with capped side branches acting as straight couplers, and the resulting repaired tube no longer actually went to the proper location, the mounting plate for the Unit Adding control valve. Granted, the caster is not equipped with this attachment and the splice does the job, but I felt that I should replace it with the proper piping.

This is what is behind the mounting plate for the Unit Adding valve:

Behind Unit Adding ValveAs is typical, removing the mounting plate has allowed the pipes to spring out of position. The spliced tubes should actually lead to two positions between the first and second rows from the top, and the dummy valve joins their airways.

I found two flare unions of the correct size in my spare parts, along with some pieces of pipe that were more or less straight and already had one end flared. I had tested my flaring tool on a sample of the pipe. I found that after a fashion I could get a flared end, but in the process the outside of the tubing became badly scarred from slipping in the clamp of the flaring tool, so it was good to find tubing already flared.

The joints to the mounting plate itself are unlike any other joint I have ever seen: The soft copper tubing is threaded and a regular nut and a special tee nut are threaded on, tightening against each other with the mounting plate clamped between them. The tee nut fits into a counterbore on the mounting plate so the front surface of the plate is flat, allowing it to join to the valve.

Pipe Fitting to Mounting Plates - Parts Pipe Fitting to Mounting Plates - Assembled

In order to loosen or tighten the tee nuts, a special screwdriver is required that can fit into the counterbore and also over the possibly projecting end of the copper tubing but still engage in the drive slots of the tee nut. I made the screwdriver by carefully grinding down a regular screwdriver.

The tubing has an outside diameter of 0.165″ and an inside diameter of a little over 0.086″. Its threaded ends are a non-standard size, #8-40, but rather than buying a special threading die (and waiting for it to arrive) I used my lathe to thread the two tubing ends. For this to be possible I had to do it before bending the tubing so the tube would fit through the bore of the lathe spindle. This in turn meant that I had to measure the shape of the bent tubing and calculate the correct length of straight tubing required, including accounting for the fact that the ¾″ bend radius required less tubing length than the measured sharp bend layout.

Threading the tubing on the lathe was simple to do; rather than cutting the depth to a particular dimension I cut until the nut test-fitted properly.

Threading Tubing Threading Tubing - Close-up Threading Tubing - Test fit

After marking out the bends and using a 1½″ pipe as a bending arbor, I had my finished pipes:

Marking out bends Finished replacement pipes

I will be able to do the final adjustment of the shape of the pipes when I install them. The mounting plate and dummy valve have been cleaned already, so now I can install my pipe repairs and reinstall the plate and valve.

 

Monotype Pneumatics: Quadding and Centering actuators

The Quadding and Centering system on the Monotype composition caster is controlled by two actuators on the paper tower.

The one for Quadding is a simple piston inside the tower housing which causes the motion of the paper tower cam to rotate a notched counting wheel; only when the counting wheel has advanced 5 (or 10) positions (to the next notch) is the paper ribbon allowed to advance. As a result the character coded on the ribbon is repeated 5 (or 10) times. The choice of 5 or 10 is controlled by rotating part of the notched counter wheel, thus closing up half its notches.

The one for Centering is a rocker arm outside the tower housing which is tilted one way to initiate centering by preventing paper ribbon advance, and is tilted back to its normal position when a sensor on the galley detects that the line is full. It is also forced to its normal position when both Quadding and Centering are coded on the same ribbon line (which IMHO is a keyboarding error).

Both of these receive their pneumatic signals via a manifold in the mounting plate of the Unit Shift valve, and these control signals originate in another valve (to be detailed later) mounted on the rear apron of the caster table.

The Centering actuator contains quite a few parts with a bit of clever pneumatics involved:

Centering Actuator Disassembled

The clever part is the reset piston (which returns the rocker arm to its normal position). Firstly, it is a double piston, so it can either be actuated by the line-full signal from the galley or by the redundant selection of both Quadding and Centering on the same ribbon position. Each of these signals has its own isolated cavity in the cylinder, and either one will raise the upper piston and push the rocker arm to its normal position. Secondly, by using a larger diameter piston for the reset piston, the air pressure that rocks the arm when starting centering is able to be overcome by the reset piston actuated by the same pressure.

It should be noted that the two mounting screws (the long ones above and below the pistons) are not the same length (and are shown in the wrong positions in the above photo). The longer screw penetrates into the inside of the paper tower housing and acts as a mounting screw for the Quadding actuator as well.

The centering actuator was reassembled and installed on the side of the paper tower facing the operator just below the notched Quadding counting wheel:

Centering Actuator Assembled Centering Actuator Installed

The second photo is taken looking obliquely downward between the paper tower and the centering pin arm from the left side of the machine.

The Quadding actuator is installed inside the paper tower and all the air lines connect to the manifold in the Unit Shift Valve mounting plate:

Quadding Actuator Quadding and Centering piping

The Centering actuator is also visible in the first photo.

The next pneumatic parts to clean are the dummy valve and mounting plate for Unit Adding, and I might also correct the messy repair job on one of the related air lines.

Monotype Pneumatics: Unit Shift Valve completed

The last task left for Unit Shift was to install (what I call) the buffer valve. I use this term because its purpose is to store the Unit Shift selection (on or off) from the end of the ribbon read (just after the pin jaws close) until the time when the matcase is positioned (just as the matrix jaws close).

Unit Shift Valves With Arrows

The buffer valve is in the right foreground, connected to the Unit Shift valve by three copper tubes. If you want to remove any of this (for instance to adjust the stroke length on the jaws) by far the easiest way is to remove the Unit Shift valve, its buffer valve, bracket and tubing all at once. This is done by removing the two bolts and four screws marked by red arrows (one of the screws is hidden by one of the pipe fittings).  All the parts then come off as a unit, connected by the tubing.

The next task is to reinstall the Quadding and Centering actuators on the paper tower.

Schopper-Riegler Freeness Tester for sale

This is the third piece of papermaking laboratory equipment I have for sale. Per ISO standard 5267-1, this tests the “freeness” of the pulp, which can be thought of as the amount of water which is “free” and will drain quickly from the fibres. As pulp is beaten (for instance in a Hollander beater) its freeness decreases. This instrument is one of two commonly used to test for pulp freeness, the other being a Canadian Standard Freeness (CSF) tester. There are tables to convert between S-R freeness and CSF freeness.

Both testers run on similar principles: A known amount of pulp is released to drain through a screen, and the drain water is directed to a funnel which has one hole at the bottom which allows a known flow rate, and another side hole to catch any water that drains from the pulp in excess of that rate. The volume of water from the side hole is measured to give an indication of how much of the water in the pulp is free to drain quickly.

SR TesterUnfortunately this tester is in storage and I have no photos of it, but it is essentially the same as the one illustrated here. There is a weight in the larger vertical tube at the back, and a cord leading to the pulley and crank at the top. When a catch is released, the weight drops, lifting the bar and allowing the pulp in the upper chamber to reach the screen. By using a weight like this the test is not affected by the manner in which the operator releases the pulp. To give you an idea of the overall size, the tester is about 1m tall, and the upper cylinder holds 1L of pulp.

The tester for sale is complete and suitable as is to obtain qualitative results but would require calibration for quantitative results that could be sensibly compared with the results from other S-R testers.

We are asking $1000 for this unit.

Monotype Pneumatics: Unit Shift valve reinstallation

In my next task of getting the paper tower operational on my Monotype composition caster, I have started cleaning and lubricating the various pneumatic control valves. The first one I did is a combination of the Unit Shift control valve and a manifold for the Quadding and Centering unit, located on the left table apron below the paper tower. After removing the valve body and its mounting plate I was left with a mess of pipe connections:

Unit Shift Valve piping

Unfortunately the pipes have some spring to them and shifted out of position once the valve base was removed. Removing this base required a specially modified cabinet-tip screwdriver to remove the retaining nuts for the pipes.

I disassembled the valve and base and cleaned all the parts with solvent and a brush:

Unit Shift valve parts

Those little rings near the upper left are the retaining nuts for the pipes. I reassembled the valve using a light oil, and got to work on reinstalling the base plate. This job was made difficult by the shifted positions of the pipes as there is not enough room to reach behind the plate and put them in their holes individually. Furthermore, the mould blade cam lever prevents the plate from dropping into place from more than about an inch away. I put short lengths of wire into each pipe, which allowed me to guide each into its own hole. Inn retrospect though I should have chosen wire that was a closer fit to the inside diameter of the pipe, and also stiffer than the soft iron stove wire I actually used. This would have made it easier to coax each pipe into its proper hole just by shifting the wire.

Unit Shift base plate reinstallation

This shows the base plate in position with some of the pipes secured, and others with the positioning wires still in place. This photo and the next were lit by my work light which was below the valve area, hence the spooky upside-down shadowing. Once I had all the pipes secured I could re-mount the valve body; I cleaned the mating surfaces, applied a heavy oil, and screwed the valve onto the mounting plate.

20130924IMG_6488

The control knob now moves freely allowing Unit Shift to be turned on and off easily. The other buffer valve, which connects to the three flare fittings on the front, still remains to be installed.

The next valve and base plate I will clean is the one for Unit Adding, which is not installed on my caster, so instead of the valve there is a dummy plate mounted on the base plate which routes all the air lines as if Unit Adding were turned off.

Heart & Hand Festival

We spent today demonstrating paper marbling at the Heart & Hand Festival at Joseph Schneider Haus, and the item featuring us (and our resident cricket) on the festival’s blog just went up yesterday.

We were fortunate to have an indoor location for this because it rained all day and the outdoor exhibitors had to put up with some leaky canopies and cool breezes, although the blacksmith didn’t seem to mind much. Other than getting us a bit wet when loading in, the only effect the rain had on us was that power outages the night before forced me to mix up my marbling size the morning of the event. Because the size is mixed hot, it was still warm when I started marbling, causing some problems with the paint flow for the first three or four sheets of marbling. Once the size had cooled fully, everything went smoothly.

Despite the poor weather and some competing events we felt we had a good turnout. I have about 20 more pieces of marbling (using a palette of greens and blue) to add to our stock, and we passed out plenty of flyers for our upcoming Rural Routes Studio Tour. We left the marbling on site to dry and will be picking it up tomorrow.

Gurley paper permeability (porosity) tester for sale

Another commercial paper mill laboratory instrument we are putting up for sale is a Gurley Tester, which measures the porosity or permeability of a sheet of paper by trying to blow air through it as defined in TAPPI test T460. The operator measures how much time it takes for a specific volume of air to pass through the sheet.

Gurley tester Gurley tester closeup

This is an older model where the operator must turn a capstan to clamp the paper sample between two plates; newer models employ a lever and weight to provide consistent clamping force.

All parts are include, and most appear to be nickel-plated brass and could stand a good polish to remove the copper corrosion, but the unit should still be fully operational once cleaned up.

We are asking $500 for this tester.

 

 

Laboratory Handsheet Former for sale

We bought this handsheet former several years ago as part of a lot of commercial papermaking laboratory equipment and it is time we tried to sell it. This unit is for making standardized test sheets following TAPPI (The American Pulp and Paper Institute) procedure T205 “Forming handsheets for physical tests of pulp.”

TAPPI Sheetformer Bottom TAPPI Sheetformer Top

Unfortunately I don’t have a photo of it set up for use but a drawing can be seen as Figure 2 in the above reference. The near end of the pipe/valve seen on the right side of the second photo attaches to the drain of the cylindrical tank, which can be seen on the right side of the first photo, and the whole assembly stands upright with the base of the cylinder on a stand (not included) over a drain sump. The cylinder can be unlatched at its base and tipped open to reveal a removable round screen, on which the sheet is formed. The sheet formed is 158.8mm diameter. A trough around the base of the cylinder catches spilled water and sends it down the gray plastic drain pipe visible in the first photo.

To use it, the unit is filled with water to a certain level in the cylinder, also filling the long drain pipe. A specific amount of pulp is added to the cylinder and stirred a specific number of times using the included dasher (which is then removed). Pushing down on the lever opens a valve at the foot of the tall drain pipe, and the water spills from the bottom of the pipe; the height of the column of water generates a considerable suction, drawing the pulp against the screen to form a sheet. The idea is the emulate the suction applied to the mould screen (“wire”) in papermaking machines.

The cylinder is again unclamped and tipped open, the screen is removed and the sheet is couched off onto standardized absorbent blotters and placed in  a standardized press to press out the water, thence to a (what else?) standardized drying stack. The finished sheet is cut up into pieces destined for a suite of other standardized tests.

TAPPI Sheetformer accessories

Parts and Accessories

There are a few accessories included:

  • 6 mould screens, some dirty, some like new, both brass and stainless steel
  • Several pieces of both the coarse and fine screen to rebuild the mould screens
  • A stack of standard blotters
  • Couching and Pressing plates
  • The dasher for mixing the pulp in the cylinder
  • A cross-shaped baffle to inhibit vortex formation in the drain chamber

We are asking $1000 for the sheet former and accessories, HST and shipping extra.

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