BOUND Book Arts Fair, December 7th, 2025
The annual BOUND Book Arts Fair will take place this year on Saturday, December 7th, 2025, at the Arts & Letters Club, 14 Elm Street, in Toronto (just west off Yonge, a block south of Gerrard). This fair will feature… Read more ›
The annual BOUND Book Arts Fair will take place this year on Saturday, December 7th, 2025, at the Arts & Letters Club, 14 Elm Street, in Toronto (just west off Yonge, a block south of Gerrard). This fair will feature limited edition handmade books, artist’s books, prints, broadsides, cards, ephemera, and more. We’ll have a table there (on the third floor) selling paper, both marbled and handmade, bookbinding tools and supplies, as well as a few letterpress things too! The fair is open from 11am-5pm and admission is free.
Equipment Acquisition, Repair, and Maintenance
When setting up the Mackenzie Printery‘s Whitlock press for this summer’s Marshville Heritage Festival, I noticed that the press bed has a line marked across it clearly labeled “H L”. I assume this stands for “Head Line”, which is the line… Read more ›
When setting up the Mackenzie Printery‘s Whitlock press for this summer’s Marshville Heritage Festival, I noticed that the press bed has a line marked across it clearly labeled “H L”. I assume this stands for “Head Line”, which is the line on the bed which aligns with the leading edge of the sheet of paper (or, perhaps, just clears the grippers). I had noticed that the actual forme of type on the bed, which was printing at the correct place on the paper, was well over this line and in fact almost hanging over the edge of the bed. I felt this might be an issue with the timing of the press. I took a copy of the poster that had just been printed, placed it on the inked forme still in the press (in the same orientation as the original impression), with the edge of the paper lined up with the “H L” mark, and rubbed the back of the paper to take a crude impression of the form. The two impressions were about 1⅛″ apart. This made me feel that the bed was off by a tooth in the gearing that drives it. I also took an impression of the bed drive gear using the oil/grease that was on it, and determined that the drive rack had a pitch of ¾″. Later, when the forme had been removed, I placed some lumps of Plasticine on the press bed to measure exactly how the edges of the impression area of the cylinder lined up with the bed. This required a bit of timing finesse and manual turning of the press to get good measurements rather than just smearing off the top of the Plasticine. This is how things looked at the leading edge; unfortunately, camera perspective distorts the apparent measurements off the measuring tape. The 7″ mark lines up with the “H L” line, and the impression in the Plasticine is about at the 5⅞″ mark, confirming my other measurement.<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4453" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-1024x1003.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="593" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-1024x1003.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-300x294.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-768x752.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-1536x1504.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-100x98.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-150x147.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-200x196.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-450x441.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-600x588.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge-900x881.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Leading-edge.jpg 1876w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />There is another fainter line on the bed ¾″ from the “H L” line, but this seems so faint, it might not be factory-original. I did the same sort of measurement at the trailing edge, and found that the trailing edge of the cylinder was ¾″ away from the raised edge of the bed (again, perspective distorts the apparent measurement):<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4454" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-788x1024.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="786" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-788x1024.jpg 788w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-231x300.jpg 231w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-768x998.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-1182x1536.jpg 1182w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-100x130.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-150x195.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-200x260.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-300x390.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-450x585.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-600x780.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge-900x1170.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Trailing-edge.jpg 1510w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />Together, these observations imply to me that the bed should be shifted one tooth on its rack, so that the printing area of the cylinder lies between the “H L” line and the stop at the foot of the bed. This ¾″ shift would still leave a ⅜″ discrepancy, but I think this represents the difference between the leading edge of the cylinder and the area that is safe from gripper damage. This allows a generous ⅜″ space for grippers to grab the sheet edge between the cylinder leading edge and “H L”. One of the formes we had been printing has a border all round which we want close to the edge of the paper, so this would have to be placed on the bed beyond the head line, but this is fine because the grippers on the press are set very close to the edge of the sheet. However, the same timing discrepancy might also be caused by the cylinder itself being out of position by one tooth so I would like to do a bit more research before actually shifting the bed. The grippers and sheet lifters are all driven by the cylinder itself and would not be affected by retiming the cylinder, but changing the timing these two ways would have subtle differences in the relative motion of the cylinder and bed, particularly on the bed’s return stroke. I would have to look closely at the relative timing of the bed motion vs. when the cylinder lowers to impression height and rises again. Changing the timing would mean that printing close to the end of a full-height sheet would require the forme to be right against the raised edge at the foot of the bed, with no room for a chase. As things stand currently there is ¾″ of room for a chase frame. There is another Whitlock press in Cumberland, near Ottawa, and although it is not identical (it does not have the reversing stacker), I’m hoping the bed and cylinder motion are the same. I’d like to get the chance to visit it and make some measurements on it next time I’m in the area. I could measure the actual limits of the bed’s motion, and also observe the cylinder position when the bed stops moving at either end of its stroke.
Last year I had noticed that the Ludlow Typograph Model L at the Mackenzie Printery was taking a long time to warm up and was also producing poor slugs unless it was casting more or less continuously. Some investigation with… Read more ›
Last year I had noticed that the Ludlow Typograph Model L at the Mackenzie Printery was taking a long time to warm up and was also producing poor slugs unless it was casting more or less continuously. Some investigation with an ohmmeter revealed that the throat heater circuit was open. The pot on the Ludlow has three heaters, a main one for the pot proper, one for the mouthpiece that contacts the mould when casting, and one for the throat which is a passage between the pump and the mouthpiece. With the throat heater out of commission, the only thing keeping the type metal in the throat molten was conduction from the main pot or constant flow of metal from the main pot by casting a lot. The Printery had a collection of used and new-old-stock Ludlow throat heaters, part of a donation of items from Ruth Black a few years ago, so I started working on replacing the heater. This requires removing the pot, which in turn pretty much requires draining the pot (though even then it is still quite heavy). Once the pot is removed it can be flipped over and the covers for the throat heater and underside wiring can be removed. I left the wiring from the controller to the pot connected, so I had the pot perched on a chair behind the caster.<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4442" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-1024x270.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="160" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-1024x270.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-300x79.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-768x202.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-1536x405.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-100x26.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-150x40.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-200x53.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-450x119.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-600x158.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater-900x237.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-heater.jpg 1845w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />I got the old heater out. It consists of a sandwich of two steel plates with mica insulation and the heating wires in between. I later did a post-mortem on this heater—see below. This is quite different from any of the replacement heaters we had: they were all tubular heating elements cast into a rectangular block of metal, perhaps zinc. They were also generally thicker than the old heater (they were not all the same thickness) and would not fit into the cramped slot provided for the heater in the pot.<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4443" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-485x1024.jpg" alt="" width="485" height="1024" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-485x1024.jpg 485w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-142x300.jpg 142w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-768x1623.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-727x1536.jpg 727w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-100x211.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-150x317.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-200x423.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-300x634.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-450x951.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-600x1268.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-900x1902.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Measuring-Heater-Thickness-rotated.jpg 954w" sizes="(max-width: 485px) 100vw, 485px" />I took a rough measurement of the thickness of the old heater and used my mill to thin out the chosen replacement heater, taking care not to cut into the tubular heater element embedded in the metal block. The particular heater was chosen because the angle of the emerging terminals seemed to be the best fit into the cramped cavity under the pot. <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4444" class="size-large wp-image-4444" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-1024x615.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="363" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-1024x615.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-300x180.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-768x461.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-1536x923.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-2048x1231.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-100x60.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-150x90.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-200x120.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-450x270.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-600x361.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Flycutting-the-surface-900x541.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> Using a fly cutter on my Sherline mill to thin out the heater <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4445" class="size-large wp-image-4445" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-323x1024.jpg" alt="" width="323" height="1024" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-323x1024.jpg 323w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-95x300.jpg 95w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-768x2438.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-484x1536.jpg 484w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-100x317.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-150x476.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-200x635.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-300x952.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Modified-Heater-900x2857.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 323px) 100vw, 323px" /> The heater ready to install. There is a small steel pin, visible near the top, which keeps the heater centered when the metal block is cast. I installed the new heater, which involved some fiddling to get the covers to fit. The cover for the throat heater is designed to sort of wedge in place and hold the heater tight against the internal surface of the throat for good thermal transfer, and there is a thin layer of thermal insulation between the heater and this cover which had to be just right to get the cover installed. After this fix, the Ludlow heats up and casts good slugs again, even the first slug of the day. I later took apart the old heater. The two side plates were held together by seven flat-head steel screws, which required a manual impact screwdriver to remove (several actually snapped off). With one of the plates removed, the heater fell apart into a pile of mica along with the actual heater strips. This mica was likely more solid when new but decades of heat and humidity caused it to delaminate and fall to pieces.<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4446" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-1024x553.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="327" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-1024x553.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-300x162.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-768x415.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-1536x829.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-2048x1106.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-100x54.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-150x81.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-200x108.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-450x243.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-600x324.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Old-Heater-Disassembled-900x486.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />The fault in the heater was not the heating wire, but the connection to the the lower terminal; you can see in the photo how this terminal tab is disconnected from the heating wire. The mica insulation around the terminals was less crumbly and stayed more or less as one piece, but it shows evidence of this connection overheating and probably arcing as it failed—it was actually hot enough to melt the mica! <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4447" class="wp-image-4447 size-large" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-668x1024.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="927" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-668x1024.jpg 668w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-196x300.jpg 196w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-768x1177.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-100x153.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-150x230.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-200x307.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-300x460.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-450x690.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-600x920.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage-900x1379.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Insulation-Damage.jpg 905w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> Melted spot in the mica caused by failing electrical connection
Su-making Workshop at Bishop’s University
Last weekend, along with about ten other people, I attended a 2-day workshop on making (and using) a su (screen for Japanese-style paper making). The workshop was hosted in and around the Molson building at Bishop’s University in Lennoxville (Sherbrooke)… Read more ›
Last weekend, along with about ten other people, I attended a 2-day workshop on making (and using) a su (screen for Japanese-style paper making). The workshop was hosted in and around the Molson building at Bishop’s University in Lennoxville (Sherbrooke) Québec. This event was organized by Régine Neumann, who teaches at Bishop’s, and Alexandre Bonton ran the actual workshop. Alex has been experimenting with alternative materials and techniques for making a su because the traditional bamboo splints and silk thread are nearly impossible to obtain locally. Many aspects of our su construction were guided by Tim Barret’s book Japanese Papermaking, with adaptations for availability of materials. The original plan for the workshop was to use fine nylon thread and the seed-head stems of local grasses instead of the traditional silk thread and bamboo splints. However, recent weather has left the grass plants too green for this purpose, so instead we used the stems of flax plants which Régine and her students had already harvested and dried. These stems were generally about 1.5 to 2.5mm diameter, so this would produce a rather coarse su (in the real thing the bamboo splints are about 0.5-0.7mm diameter), and to provide adequate water flow through the screen, we used a coarser nylon thread for the stitching. On the upside the flax stems were long enough that no joints were required in the su, and the coarser materials made for faster construction. During Alex’s presentation Friday night before the workshop, he showed various sus he has made, including one made from carbon-fibre composite rod, but he said this material, as well as the glass fibre rod suggested in Tim Barret’s book, was not very suitable because the hydrophobic nature of the resin used to make the rods prevented water from passing between the rods to drain the pulp. The weaving stands we used were a simplification of Barret’s, with a single notched board and attached legs:<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4426" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-1024x485.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="287" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-1024x485.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-300x142.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-768x363.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-1536x727.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-2048x969.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-100x47.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-150x71.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-200x95.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-450x213.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-600x284.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-weaving-stand-900x426.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />The weaving bobbins were short pieces of ½″ rigid PVC water pipe, weighted with epoxied-in lead shot, and fitted with two rings of ½″ inside-diameter flexible (vinyl, perhaps) tubing to form the “sides” of the bobbin. The groove left for winding the thread was a bit small for the heavier nylon we were using, but otherwise these worked fairly well, and the vinyl hoses made for relatively quiet weaving. Alex had had problems with the epoxy, and also finding lead shot (hunters are moving to other metal shot to avoid scattering lead through the environment), so we discussed other ways of making bobbins, and particularly weighting them. I think a relatively easy method would be to take short (1″ perhaps) lengths of round ½″ steel rod, and add two rings of rubber or vinyl hose to form the sides. These should both be available from pretty much any hardware store; you just need to find hose that fits tight enough. Alex provided some previously-made rudimentary ketas (the frame that supports the su and forms the deckle), with just two frames and ribs to support the su but no hinges or latches, and each of us made a su to fit, about 30×22cm (12×8½″). <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4427" class="size-large wp-image-4427" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-1024x602.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="356" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-1024x602.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-300x176.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-768x452.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-1536x903.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-2048x1204.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-100x59.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-150x88.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-200x118.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-450x265.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-600x353.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/su-waiting-for-string-trimming-900x529.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> My completed su, waiting to get the threads trimmed Although making the su was the centrepiece of the workshop, we also spent some time harvesting tororo-aoi (to make neri formation aid) from the community garden, collecting the seeds, and processing the roots: <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4428" class="size-large wp-image-4428" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-831x1024.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="746" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-831x1024.jpg 831w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-243x300.jpg 243w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-768x947.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-1246x1536.jpg 1246w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-1662x2048.jpg 1662w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-100x123.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-150x185.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-200x247.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-300x370.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-450x555.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-600x740.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-harvest-900x1109.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> Harvesting the plants, roots and all. Frost has killed the foliage making the plants hard to see in the photo. <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4429" class="size-large wp-image-4429" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-837x1024.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="740" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-837x1024.jpg 837w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-245x300.jpg 245w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-768x939.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-1256x1536.jpg 1256w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-1675x2048.jpg 1675w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-100x122.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-150x183.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-200x245.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-300x367.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-450x550.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-600x734.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/collecting-tororo-aoi-seeds-900x1101.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> Breaking up the seed pods to save seeds for next year. The pods have fine spines so gloves were recommended but not essential. <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4430" class="size-large wp-image-4430" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-1024x488.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="288" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-1024x488.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-300x143.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-768x366.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-1536x732.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-2048x976.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-100x48.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-150x72.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-200x95.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-450x215.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-600x286.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-roots-washed-900x429.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> The roots after rinsing off soil. This turned out to be much more that we needed, so unused roots went into the freezer. <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4431" class="size-large wp-image-4431" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-1024x485.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="287" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-1024x485.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-300x142.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-768x363.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-1536x727.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-2048x969.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-100x47.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-150x71.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-200x95.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-450x213.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-600x284.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/tororo-aoi-root-crushing-900x426.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> Crushing the roots to release the sap. Overnight soaking in cold water will produce the slimy formation aid. The next day we squeezed the mucilaginous water through a cotton cloth to produce the formation aid which would help to suspend the fibres in the vat and produce the slow drainage required for Japanese sheetforming. After the workshop, unused formation aid was frozen, as an experiment to see if it keeps its slimy qualities when stored this way. Normally neri loses its potency within a day or two, so it would be nice if unused neri could be preserved by freezing (which works for the unprocessed roots). For actually making paper, we used kozo bark from Thailand which Régine had recently cooked in a solution of soda ash and rinsed off. We each spent some time doing the tedious process of chiri-tori, picking out black bits in the cooked bark generally caused by insect damage or other injury to the plant. These bits are considered undesirable because they form black flecks in the finished paper. This also allowed us to give the fibre a final rinsing before beating. For beating, we would take a ball of fibre about the size of a baseball, place it on a wooden plank and beat the daylights out of it with pounding tools: <!--[if lt IE 9]> <![endif]--> https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/beating-experimentation.mp4 We had various beating tools, including hammer-shaped mallets with notched faces, several sizes of paddle-shaped beating sticks, and just plain 1×2″ hardwood sticks, and people took turns with the tools to see what worked best for them. As beating progressed we collected all the beaten fibre in a pail. Sunday afternoon we made the paper (sorry, no photos of that). We had four vats set up and we took turns forming sheets and couching them off. As with the Japanese method, we did not have any couches; the sheets were laid directly on top of each other in the post. We placed coloured ribbons under the edge of each sheet to allow easy separation and also to identify which sheets belonged to whom. While we were cleaning up, we pressed all four posts together, using a bucket of water as a weight.<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4433" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-929x1024.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="667" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-929x1024.jpg 929w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-272x300.jpg 272w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-768x846.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-1394x1536.jpg 1394w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-100x110.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-150x165.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-200x220.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-300x331.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-450x496.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-600x661.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts-900x992.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/pressing-the-posts.jpg 1711w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />Without couches to separate the sheets, slow pressing is essential, so every ten minutes we would add 2 more litres of water (1kg, or about 4½ pounds) to the bucket. When the bucket was full we added a second bucket (splitting the water between them) and continued adding weight. Over a period of about 2 hours we added a total of about 30 litres of water (30kg or about 66 pounds). This is very light pressure, about 0.7PSI or 5kPa, compared to the pressure used in western papermaking, but it seemed sufficient to allow handling the wet sheets, especially with the ribbon along one edge. We removed the pails and separated the sheets, placing them on melamine-surfaced Masonite boards to dry.<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4434" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-1024x600.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="354" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-1024x600.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-300x176.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-768x450.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-1536x900.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-2048x1201.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-100x59.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-150x88.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-200x117.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-450x264.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-600x352.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/paper-drying-900x528.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />I made 6 sheets, and altogether the group made 48 sheets (including one in tatters). We left them on the boards to dry, and Régine will be sending us our sheets once the postal strike ends. Despite the coarse su I felt this was my most successful attempt at Japanese papermaking. This was from a combination of coaching from Alex (and other participants; there was a lot of exchange of ideas amongst us throughout the weekend), and the used of real neri rather than the synthetic PEO formation aid we sell (the two interact with the fibres differently). I had little trouble couching off the sheets, and after pressing they all separated cleanly as well, something I’ve always had problems with. It was great to meet some other papermakers and exchange ideas with them, and I want to thank Régine and Alex for organizing this.
When working on the computer to set up Monotype casting jobs, one thing one must specify is the Normal Wedge (commonly just called “the wedge”). This is a narrow wedge-shaped accessory to the caster which determines how wide the type… Read more ›
When working on the computer to set up Monotype casting jobs, one thing one must specify is the Normal Wedge (commonly just called “the wedge”). This is a narrow wedge-shaped accessory to the caster which determines how wide the type should be cast, depending on which row of the matrix case the mat is in. Monotype has many wedges, depending on the exact mix of widths required for any particular font, and the wedge is specified as a combination of the desired set-width and the layout of individual widths on the wedge. The latter is specified using a number that almost invariably starts with “S”, by far the most common being the “S5” wedge. I believe the “S” stands for “stopbar”, which is the corresponding accessory for the Monotype Keyboard which provides the widths so space widths can be calculated for filled lines of text. For some unknown-till-today reason, my fingers insist on typing “S9” instead of “S5”, and I was a bit mystified where my mind was coming up with “S9”. Today I finally realized that this dates back to early microcomputer days, before Windows, DOS, or even CP/M, where binary programs were entered as lines of text. One encoding was the so-called Motorola encoding (due to the popularity of the Motorola 6800 processor chip). These lines were each started with an “S” code, with “S9” (end-of-file) being the one that stuck in my head for so long!
This week I’ve been trying to wrap up a type casting job on my Monotype Composition Caster, when an internal part on my 12-point Lanston mould broke. I had been casting some 12-point low spaces, and when I got down… Read more ›
This week I’ve been trying to wrap up a type casting job on my Monotype Composition Caster, when an internal part on my 12-point Lanston mould broke. I had been casting some 12-point low spaces, and when I got down to the em/6 size (only 2 points thick) I found that I had to run the caster very fast, around 165 RPM, to avoid nozzle freezes. The nozzle injects molten type metal into the mould, but if the caster is run too slow for the size of type and metal temperature, metal will remain solidified in the nozzle itself so no type is cast. At this speed, however, the low-quad mechanism was not acting reliably, instead chattering in and out of operation. This mechanism recognizes special matrices in the matcase and forces the mould to keep the upper blade closed so a short space is cast. If the upper blade opens with the main blade, you get a high space, the same height as the shoulders of a piece of type. These are generally undesirable because they can work up while printing and end up printing a small black rectangle instead of the required space. When I changed the caster to cast a font using the same mould I found that the upper mould blade was not opening properly, either causing low quads to be cast, or type with the face perched oddly on a small leg of metal. On disassembling the mould I found that the small latch that holds the upper blade moving in unison with the main blade was broken: <img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4412" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-1024x506.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="299" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-1024x506.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-300x148.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-768x379.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-1536x758.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-2048x1011.jpg 2048w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-100x49.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-150x74.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-200x99.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-450x222.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-600x296.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_220405-900x444.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />Part of the latch is still attached to the pivot pin on the upper blade. For reference, those are 1″ (25cm) squares in the background. I don’t know if this was just metal fatigue at the most inopportune time (though really, is there ever a good time for a machine to break?), or caused by the chattering low-quad mechanism (probably itself due to worn parts). Monotype moulds contain many custom-fitted parts, and I’m hoping this is not one of them, so that I can replace this with the latch from another mould to get casting again. This latch is borrowed from another 12-point mould which I own:<img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-4413" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-845x1024.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="733" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-845x1024.jpg 845w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-248x300.jpg 248w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-768x931.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-1268x1536.jpg 1268w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-100x121.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-150x182.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-200x242.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-300x364.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-450x545.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-600x727.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442-900x1091.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/20250817_223442.jpg 1591w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" />This does not look like a custom-fitted part, and there is no reason it would be, so I hope a simple transplant will work. The latch pivot pin presses in and out easily (it is trapped by the main blade once parts are assembled) so this should be a simple job. Even if this gets me up and running again, I’m left short one latch, so I’ll have to look at this part to see if I can make a replacement. The original part seems to be made from sheet steel 1/16″ (1.6mm) thick, probably punched and bent to shape, with a bit of grinding to form the actual latch surface (the top edge in the photo). The bending would have to be done hot to permit such a sharp bend. To make a replacement, probably machined from a solid block, I’ll need to identify the important features so I know which surfaces need precise tolerances. I don’t think it would be practical for me to make this from flat metal because I don’t think I could get the sharp bends on such a small part, but I will look into making it from a piece of square tubing if I can find something suitable. From the photo, the part seems to be about ⅜″ wide so there might be something available. I’d also have to check if the part is hardened, which would complicate making a replacement. Update The borrowed part fits, so it seems this is indeed an interchangeable part. I got my casting done.
Marshville Heritage Festival, Aug 30th-Sept 1st 2025
The Marshville Heritage Society will be holding their annual Marshville Heritage Festival over Labour Day weekend, Saturday August 30th-Monday, September 1st, 2025. The fair runs from 10am-5pm each day and is located on the fairgrounds next to the Wainfleet Arena… Read more ›
The Marshville Heritage Society will be holding their annual Marshville Heritage Festival over Labour Day weekend, Saturday August 30th-Monday, September 1st, 2025. The fair runs from 10am-5pm each day and is located on the fairgrounds next to the Wainfleet Arena at 31942 Park Street in Wainfleet, Ontario. The Mackenzie Print Group, who own and maintain much of the collection on display at the Mackenzie Printery & Newspaper Museum in Queenston, has a printing shop at the fair where we will be demonstrating printing technology from the early to mid 20th Century. We will be operating a Whitlock newspaper press and casting single lines of type for visitors on a Ludlow Typograph. Visitors will also be able to print their own bookmark on our Adana press as a keepsake of the fair. In addition to the Ludlow casts, we will also have cuts (printing blocks), year-at-a-glance calendars, typecases, and other printing-related items available in trade for donations to our organization to support the museum collection. The fair also has plenty of other attractions, including over 20 heritage buildings relocated to the grounds, a display of old farm equipment and machinery (some in operation), a classic car show (changing every day), demonstrations of various crafts, musical entertainment, activities for the kids, a miniature train ride around the grounds, and plenty of food. Fair admission is $8 for adults, free for children, and there is plenty of free parking available.
I’ve populated my new PCB with components and after a bit of fiddling, I’ve run a test on it and everything appears to work. The board has a few problems that had to be patched over, including: A missing trace… Read more ›
I’ve populated my new PCB with components and after a bit of fiddling, I’ve run a test on it and everything appears to work. The board has a few problems that had to be patched over, including: A missing trace (jumper added) Switches damaged during soldering (replaced) Pins bridged by solder (cleaned up) Poor soldering of one IC socket which shifted while soldering (resoldered) Incorrect footprint for MOSFET (installed rotated with extra solder to make connections) Incorrect footprint size for several resistors (removed solder mask to extend pad) K and L signals don’t work because of special pins on processor (solution TBD) Given all that, the board operated properly. The cycle sensor works, none of the channels are crossed or swapped, and it communicates properly through the USB to my laptop. My next job is to solder on the connectors for the pneumatic valves and install the board on the valve bodies. It will need a new flag for the optical cycle sensor because its orientation has changed. This will point out any other errors, in particular swapped channels where, for instance, the laptop wants the N channel on, and the N channel LED lights, but some other air passage actually gets the air. I hope I don’t have any such mistakes because laying out the PCB traces for this part was really tedious. For the problem with the K and L signals, it turns out that the pins I had selected for these signals can only be operated in open-drain mode. Most of the output pins can either force to ground (“0” output) or to the logic “1” voltage (about 3 volts in this case). However, an open-drain output has the choice of forcing to ground for a 0, or letting the pin float to whatever voltage the rest of the circuit tries to put it to. For this to actually generate a 1-level voltage requires a resistor connecting the pin to the +3.3V supply so when the processor pin stops forcing it to ground, it will go to a voltage that indicated a logic 1. I have three ways to work around this: See if the processor’s internal “weak pull-up” is strong enough to do the job Use two other pins on the processor for these signals Add pull-up resistors to these two signals The first solution is only a software change, so would be preferable if it works. The other two solutions ultimately require PCB design changes, though they can also be patched on the existing board for testing. Changing the pins is a more elegant fix, but requires more extensive PCB changes. There are also other changes I want to do: Change the resistor value on the LED’s as they are too bright Switch from mini-usb to either micro or original type-A connector Give the firmware on the board a way to read a hardware revision number Add product identification graphics to the board None of these are critical to operation of the board, however.
I’ve cobbled a motor mount and installed a new drive belt, and our new type-and-rule caster now runs: It still needs work, though. For one thing, the belt either needs tension adjustment or some belt dressing so it doesn’t slip… Read more ›
I’ve cobbled a motor mount and installed a new drive belt, and our new type-and-rule caster now runs: It still needs work, though. For one thing, the belt either needs tension adjustment or some belt dressing so it doesn’t slip when in the higher geared speeds. Even more important, this machine still needs its pot, pump, and cutter/stacker refitted before it can actually produce anything! This work includes changing the pot to top-crank and making a new temperature controller since the original one has been converted into a museum display.
A PCB for the Monotype Computer Interface
I’ve been slowly plugging away (apparently, for at least 9 years!) at an interface to control my Monotype Composition Caster using a computer. The caster was originally designed to be controlled by a 31-channel punched paper ribbon, which is read… Read more ›
I’ve been slowly plugging away (apparently, for at least 9 years!) at an interface to control my Monotype Composition Caster using a computer. The caster was originally designed to be controlled by a 31-channel punched paper ribbon, which is read by compressed air. The holes in the ribbon allow the compressed air to enter specific circuits in the caster, which select which matrix to cast, when to start a new line, and other control functions. Blank ribbon is now very hard to come by, and perforating it with an appropriate program requires a whole separate set of equipment: At least one Monotype Keyboard, a collection of keybars and stopbars corresponding to the various fonts one wishes to use, and other accessories. These are all large, heavy, and rust-prone unless stored in a climate-controlled location, so many Monotype owners prefer to avoid physical keyboards altogether. In addition to avoiding all that extra hardware, the computer system is capable of making the caster do things that, though possible using a physical keyboard, would require prohibitively complex calculations on the part of the keyboard operator. There have been several computer interfaces designed through the years, gradually becoming easier to use and to install as designs improved. I’m fussy and find even the latest units somewhat clumsy, having a separate box and a bundle of tubing going to the caster’s reader head, so I’m adding to the fray with my own design. My design uses compact pneumatic valves which allow the entire unit to hang directly on the reader head, requiring no tools to install. It detects the caster cycle using the motion of the same part of the caster that applies the compressed air when reading a physical ribbon. So far, though, my unit is still a prototype, and the electronics are built on a prototyping board, with several bundles of wire connecting it to the unit on the reader head. <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4395" class="size-large wp-image-4395" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-768x1024.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="807" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-225x300.jpg 225w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-100x133.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-150x200.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-200x267.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-300x400.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-450x600.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-600x800.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_20160811_081133.jpg 1224w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> The interface sitting in a crate on my way to the 2023 ATF conference in Maine I’m finally addressing this. I’ve actually had some PCBs made, and have all the parts (in theory) required to assemble this so all the electronics (except the power supply) are part of the read head unit. <img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-4394" class="size-large wp-image-4394" src="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-1024x485.jpg" alt="" width="605" height="287" srcset="https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-1024x485.jpg 1024w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-300x142.jpg 300w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-768x363.jpg 768w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-1536x727.jpg 1536w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-100x47.jpg 100w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-150x71.jpg 150w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-200x95.jpg 200w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-450x213.jpg 450w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-600x284.jpg 600w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348-900x426.jpg 900w, https://papertrail.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/20250704_141348.jpg 2016w" sizes="(max-width: 605px) 100vw, 605px" /> Five PCB’s and a metal stencil for applying solder paste So far, I’ve found one mistake in the board: I used the wrong “footprint” for the resistors: The parts I bought—and thought I was designing for—have what is called a 0603 form, 0.6×0.3mm, but the pads on the board for the resistors were incorrectly made for 0402 form, 0.4×0.2mm. It looks like I’ll still be able to install the 0603 resistors, and though they’ll have less-than-perfect solder connections I’ll still be able to test the board for other mistakes. I could buy new resistors in the 0402 size, as they are not that expensive, but I already feel that I’m working with dust motes handling the 0603 ones! I’m not entirely sure why I went with such small parts in the first place as there is plenty of room on the PCB for larger ones. I suspect that I confused metric and inch-sized designations, and thought I was specifying 0603 in inch sizes, equivalent to metric 1608 (1.6×0.8mm), which is 2.54 times larger in each dimension. Even though I had 5 boards made, they will likely not be the final design, but will be useful for testing mechanical fitment and for practicing soldering such devices (not to mention finding errors in the circuit). Normally for quantities I’m dealing with such boards are soldered using what is called a reflow oven, where one applies a solder/flux mix in paste form to the solder pads, places the components, and heats the entire board until the solder melts. I may have access to such an oven but I don’t know if it is large enough for my boards, so I may end up with some makeshift method using a heated metal plate or two.